Get grounded on your first day in Dublin
Dublin holds a special place in my heart. No, I’m not one of “those” Americans with strong Irish roots. I don’t. But my wife does.
Born in London to Irish parents, she bounced back and forth between the UK and Ireland as a child. Her brother lives in Dublin. Her grandfather fought in the 1916 Easter Rising and his name is on the Roll of Honor of 1916 at the National Museum of Ireland. Believe me, the connection is strong.
That’s why going to Dublin is like going home. After a lifetime of visiting, here’s a little guide to getting a great experience from your visit. Remember - always build in time for the afternoon nap.
Stop 1 - Little Museum of Dublin
“Clay…. What would you call this piece of furniture?” asks Emma, our tour guide at the Little Museum of Dublin.
“A sofa? A couch?” I reply meekly, in front of a dozen other tourists.
“A SOFA IS CORRECT,” Emma says loudly and dramatically. “Now everybody come put your hand on the sofa while I magically transport you back in Irish history.”
The visitors comply, circling the couch, closing our eyes while Emma casts her spell to send us hurtling through the past.
Of course it’s an act. But what an act. Emma is our guide at this gem of a museum that can be found in a Georgian house just alongside historic St. Stephen’s Green in downtown Dublin.
If you’ve experienced tour guides who drone on through the same tired script, then you’re in for a treat at The Little Museum. Professional actors give a full-on performance when walking you through a couple of thousand years of history. They engage the audience, taking you on a journey covering everything from the Vikings to the Irish Civil War to the emergence of the Celtic Tiger Economy to the musical triumph of U2.
How should I describe our guide Emma? Quirky? Charismatic? Hilarious? Yes, yes and yes. She even sang, giving a moving performance of “Raglan Road.”
I can’t recommend the Little Museum highly enough. After a short hour, you’ll walk out with some newfound knowledge of Dublin’s history as well as a huge smile on your face.
15 St. Stephen’s Green
Tickets
Adults €15
Seniors, Students €13
Stop 2 - Grafton Street
As you leave the Little Museum, you could make a beeline for Trinity College and the Book of Kells. But why not make the short detour down Grafton Street, Dublin’s main shopping district on your way to Trinity.
Enjoy some tunes from the buskers as you walk along the rows of designer stores. The street is closed to cars, and people are everywhere shopping, eating and simply enjoying life in the capital city.
Stop by Bewley’s for a cup of coffee or lunch. You’ll see the big sign above the doors - “Bewley’s Oriental Cafes.” For more than a century, Dubliners have enjoyed dining at Bewleys. I remember my mother-in-law proudly introducing me to Bewley’s on my first trip to Dublin. The pastries and cakes are particularly tasty, and all made in-house. The restaurant has changed a lot throughout the years, but still remains an institution on Grafton Street.
Stop 3 - Trinity College - The Book of Kells
If you’re a first-time visitor to Dublin, then the Book of Kells is probably already on your list of top sites to visit. If it’s not, then add it now.
The ancient, lavishly illuminated Gospel manuscripts are located within the walls of Trinity College Dublin, which dates back to 1592. It’s Dublin’s oldest university. But that doesn’t compare with the Book of Kells which were created around A.D. 800.
These beautiful manuscripts are one of the great treasures of western civilization.
You absolutely must book your tickets in advance to avoid disappointment. Even with advance tickets, the queues to get in can be long. However, the staff do a great job of putting tourists in groups for specific time slots.
On your tour, you’ll get to walk through the Long Room of the Old Library of Trinity (closed for renovation in summer of 2023), where you’ll experience extraordinary architecture and a vast collection of ancient books. You’ll feel smarter just from the experience of walking through the room.
College Green, Dublin
Tickets
Adults €18.50
Seniors Over 60 - €15
Stop 4 - Lunch
Once you’re finished at Trinity, you’re going to need a break. If you didn’t have lunch at Bewley’s earlier, head back that way or if you’re a James Joyce fan, pop over to Davy Byrnes. Davy Byrnes has serious literary chops, including a mention in Joyce’s classic “Ulysses.” They’ve been serving up food and drink to Dubliners since 1798.
If it’s a cold day, or if you’re just in need of a hearty meal, let me recommend a Beef and Guinness Pie. With a pint of Guinness. It will hit the spot.
Stop 5 - Afternoon Nap
If you’ve managed to finish all this by, say, 2 p.m., head back to your hotel for a little siesta. Rest your legs. Catch 20 winks. Get up at about 4 p.m. and make yourself a cup of tea. Your hotel will undoubtedly provide tea making equipment in your room.
Stop 6 - Chester Beatty Library
TOT TIP: If you feel like one more quick adventure, then check out the Chester Beatty Library. You won’t be sorry. Inside are some of the oldest fragments of Biblical papyrus books. I’ve seen the Dead Sea Scrolls exhibit, and the Chester Beatty collection is far more impressive. Beautifully exhibited and respectfully curated, you’ll walk away with a new sense of wonder. Bonus - the exhibits are free.
The museum closes at 5:30 p.m., so give yourself a good hour to look around.
Located by Dublin Castle
Admission is free. Suggested donation €10
Where to eat:
21 Duke Street
Historic restaurant offering traditional Irish fare with a literary pedigree
78-79 Grafton Street
One of Dublin’s best-known eateries. Freshly roasted coffee and pastries baked in-house. Yeats, Joyce and Beckett all broke bread at Bewley’s.
39-40 Dawson St.
Instgrammable restaurant around the corner from the Little Museum of Dublin. Craft cocktails. Great weekend brunch.