I’ve still got my ticket stub from the Elvis concert from Feb. 18, 1977, when he performed at the Carolina Coliseum in Columbia, S.C.
The King was in terrible shape. Overweight. Clearly over-medicated. He forgot the words to “My Way” and only finished the song after roadie brought out a sheet of paper with the lyrics.
But he was still Elvis. Women screamed. Flash bulbs popped non-stop. The roar of the crowd was deafening.
Little did any of us know that in six months, Elvis would be gone forever.
46 years have passed since I experienced the booming voice, the winning smile and of course the white jumpsuit. It was time to make a pilgrimage to Graceland.
Ignore your friends who say Graceland is tacky. It’s freaking amazing. Graceland Mansion itself is a snapshot of 1970s cool. The jungle room. A TV room with three screens! I clearly remember my parents asking “Who would ever need three TVs in their house?”
Make sure you make a reservation on the website well in advance. Since we were visiting in July, we opted for a 9 a.m. start to avoid the Memphis heat. It was a good decision.
As my wife noted, the operation is run with the precision of Disney. After getting your tickets, you’re treated to a short video highlighting Presley’s career. (Note to Graceland: It’s time to update your video. Once you’ve seen Baz Luhrmann’s Elvis movie, expectations are through the roof). From there, you’re whisked off to the mansion in a shuttle bus where you explore the house with the help of an interactive tour on a tablet and headphones. The house tour is relatively quick since you’re not allowed upstairs.
Outside the home are Vernon’s Office, used by Elvis’s father, the Trophy Room and the Meditation Garden. The air conditioning at the Trophy Room was on the fritz, which was a shame because the collection of family artifacts was fascinating. I especially loved the collection of Elvis’s police badges.
Members of the Presley Family are buried in the Meditation Garden, a tasteful and peaceful corner of the estate. One can’t help but grieve for the lives that ended far too soon
Graceland Mansion is a small part of the experience. After seeing the house, the shuttle buses collect you at the front of the mansion and take you to the gigantic exhibit halls. One hall featured the King’s many cars - including his pink Cadillac. Another highlights his costumes. His gold lamé suit. The leather outfit he wore during his comeback tour. And scores of jumpsuits displayed in lighted cases. Another hall features outfits from fellow rock stars ranging from Bruce Springsteen to Prince to Madonna - all influenced by Elvis.
By the way, if you want your own custom gold lamé suit, you can order a custom-fitted one for a cool $2,900 at the gift shop.
Another hall pays tribute to Presley's movie career. Admittedly, there weren’t a whole lot of memorable films but with more than 30 to his credit, there’s plenty to take in.
The website says to allow two and a half to three hours to see everything. It’s probably not enough. We rushed out after two hours and 30 minutes to make a lunch reservation at B.B. King’s and felt like we had shortchanged ourselves.
It’s easy to make fun of Elvis and his fans. The outrageous outfits. The sunglasses and big hair. The excess. The whole Vegas vibe of the 1970s era. But the story of how a dirt-poor boy from Tupelo, Mississippi became the biggest star in the world is fascinating. There’s no question of the man’s influence on music, entertainment and popular culture. He was a cauldron of incredible talent whose life ended far too early.
Visiting Memphis
Our trip to Graceland was part of a nine-day road trip that would take my wife, middle son and I from Dallas to Memphis to Atlanta to New Orleans and back home.
If you want a blues-filled, Elvis themed, rib-gnawing good time weekend - then put Memphis on your list.
What to do
Graceland
3764 Elvis Presley Blvd, Memphis
Tickets - $80 - $215 depending on tour experience
Discounts: Some available for seniors 65 and up, AAA members, active and retired military. See website for details.
Sun Studio
Sun Studio bills itself as the “Birthplace of Rock & Roll.” And it’s hard to argue otherwise. After all, the first rock and roll song ever recorded - Rocket 88 - featuring a young Ike Turner was cut in the studio.
Elvis, Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins and Howlin’ Wolf all walked through the doors of Sam Phillip’s studio to “sing in a can” and change music history forever.
Mementos to the giants of music are everywhere. Old records. Manuscripts. Photos. You’ll get a peek at antique recording equipment and step right onto the studio floor where some of greats of rock history laid down tracks.
The tour guide recounts how a young Elvis struggled to find the right song until he started playing around with the old “Big Daddy” Crudup song “That’s Alright Mama.” Sam Phillips knew he had a winner and the band recorded the song that gave Elvis his big break.
At $15, which includes a live tour, Sun Studios is a great bargain.
706 Union Avenue.
Tickets are first-come, first-served. Tickets are $15 for adults, $13 for children 12-18, $10 for kids 5-12.
Discounts: No discounts for seniors.
Stax Museum of American Soul Music
Don’t miss this gem of a museum that pays tribute to the unbelievable soul music that sprang from Memphis in the 1950s, 60s and 70s. Some of the giants of the genre - Otis Redding, Isaac Hayes, the Staple Singers, Sam and Dave, Albert King - recorded at Stax.
It also tells an inspiring story of how black and white musicians came together, drawing on the influences of blues, gospel and country to create the unique Memphis Sound. A sound that faded with the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr. at the Lorraine Motel in Memphis, causing authorities to enforce harsh segregationist policies. Uplifting and heartbreaking, Stax Records is a must.
926 E McLemore Street, Memphis
Tickets: $15 ages 13-62.
Discounts: $12 for 62 and older or with AAA membership.
Beale Street
A friend of mine described Beale Street as a “poor man’s Bourbon Street” He’s not wrong, but if you want to catch some live music, head on down like we did.
There’s no shortage of music on Beale Street as you’ll discover as you walk past the bars. Some charge covers. Some just ask for tips.
We were there on a weekend, and got the feeling that many of the venues were catering to crowds with more of an interest in old top 40 hits than hearing traditional blues. But then my ears caught just the right chord progression bouncing off the walls of Beale Street. My son and I wandered into an outside performance area with a beer kiosk and picnic tables set up in an alley. We found the blues in full flow, coming from Cowboy Neal and Trump Tight Band. This is what we were looking for - great music, cold beer and couples dancing spontaneously. Cowboy Neal is a pro - engaging the crowd, getting some laughs and laying down some mean licks on that guitar.
The band played for tips, and made it easy to pay via Venmo if you had no cash (and who does these days?)
TOT TIP: Nighttime on Beale Street brings out a big mix of people, including some that you might not invite to your aunt’s bridge game. But I found the area to be well-policed. In fact, anyone entering Beale Street after sundown had to go through a metal detector. Like any city, be aware of your surroundings, and if you’re uncomfortable, head to the Peabody Hotel for a drink and some piano music.
Where to Stay
201 Union Ave
Oddly named, because it’s not on Beale Street. To be fair, it’s only a five minute walk. The hotel is modern. The bedrooms look recently renovated and the breakfast buffet was just fine. Drink prices at the bar are incredibly reasonable.
A room with two queen beds - with the AAA discount - was $243 a night before the myriad of taxes imposed on you by the City of Memphis. Also, be aware of the $32 a night valet parking fee. If you’re willing to leave your car in a nearby parking garage, you can save a few bucks. Personally, I thought it was worth it to have the car parked behind the hotel in a secure area.
If you want to splurge, consider the famous Peabody Hotel, which is just a block away from the Hilton Garden Inn. It is one of America’s grand hotels with a breathtaking lobby and bar - not to mention the parade of real ducks that come through to entertain the guests each day. But also be prepared to shell out some serious dough for the experience.
We enjoyed a drink at the Peabody lobby bar where a pianist entertained the crowd. It’s a family-friendly atmosphere. Be prepared to pay premium prices at the bar to enjoy the plush surroundings.
If you’re in the hotel during normal business hours, make sure to check out the clothes at Lansky Bros, clothier to the King (that’s Elvis, not King Charles). Originally located on Beale Street, Lansky moved into the Peabody during the pandemic. You can still buy shirts in the same style as those worn by Elvis or Buddy Guy. Prices are more reasonable than you would imagine. The staff are chatty and always willing to give you a tour of the rock memorabilia displayed around the store.
Where to Eat
The Rendezvous
I never argue about which barbecue is the best. When I’m back home in South Carolina, it’s pulled pork with mustard sauce. When I’m in Texas, I’m all about the brisket. And when you’re in Memphis, dry rubbed pork ribs is the only way to go.
And the place to eat them - since 1948 - is The Rendezvous. The restaurant can be found down an alley only minutes from the Peabody Hotel. The alluring smell of smoke and spices will help you find your way.
The Rendezvous ain’t fancy. The menu is simple. The food, delicious. Start with the cheese and sausage or go whole hog with Rendezvous Special, which adds pickles and peppers, ham and salami. We found that a full slab of ribs and a couple of sides provided plenty of food for three. Wash it down with a local Memphis brew and then satisfy that sweet craving with pecan or buttermilk chess pie. Or both. You’ll walk out still licking your fingers and amazed that you just fed three people in a classic restaurant for less than $100.
The Rendezvous
52 S. Second Street, Memphis
B.B. King’s Blues Club
Elvis may dominate the tourism headlines in Memphis, but B.B. King rightfully deserves his place at the top of the Memphis Music Legends Podium along with Elvis. Riley B. “Blues Boy” King exploded onto the music scene in the 1940s and 50s and made blues music mainstream around the world.
In 1961, he opened the B.B. King’s Blues Club. It remains one of the premiere music venues in Memphis. Nothing wrong with the food either! We started with the sausage and cheese (again). I tore into a good pulled pork sandwich, served with fries. Prices are reasonable, with most sandwiches priced at about $15. Portions are generous.
We had a table on the balcony overlooking the stage, where we enjoyed a solid set from a group of experienced players. I have just one complaint - I made our reservation using Open Table, which said that the only lunch reservation available was at 11:45 a.m. When we arrived after our tour of Graceland, we found the restaurant almost empty. We would have definitely stayed a little while longer at Graceland had we known.
TOT TIP: B.B. King’s charges a $10 per person cover, even at lunch. But if you’re interested in coming back that evening, just have them stamp your wrist as you leave. You can swing back in the evening like we did for a cold beer and a hot set from the band. And the place is jumping on a Saturday night.
B.B. King’s Blues Club
143 Beale Street, Memphis
Lafayette’s Music Room
If you want to get out of Beale Street and explore other parts of Memphis, then head to Overton Square, an upscale neighborhood filled with restaurants and music venues. We had reservations at Lafayette’s Music Room - which proved to be a smart choice.
You can catch live music at Lafayette’s every day of the week. You can also find an excellent meal. The menu features everything from burgers and pizza to rack of lamb and salmon. The sandwiches and pizza start at about $15, with the higher end items priced between $25 and $40.
The band that night was tight, focusing mainly on hits from the 70s, 80s and 90s. OK, so we took a break from traditional blues, but the covers were a ton of fun and played expertly. Check out the calendar of performers because Lafayette’s features everything from rock to soul to blues to jazz in a classy, comfortable setting. Garage parking is available just behind the venue.
Lafayette’s Music Room
2119 Madison Ave., Memphis
Postscript
We did not have time to visit the National Civil Rights Museum, located at the Lorraine Motel, site of Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination. We’ll be back to take in this important site.
Tickets: $18 for adults. $16 for seniors, $13 for military veterans with ID. Other discounts for children and students.
National Civil Rights Museum
450 Mulberry St., Memphis