When you think of great regional food in the United States, it’s difficult to argue against the supremacy of New Orleans.
The exquisite blend of onions, celery and green peppers - the Holy Trinity - form the base of many dishes. That is then often combined with a deep, dark roux, tomatoes, other peppers, okra, seafood, andouille sausage and Creole or Cajun seasonings. Perhaps some stock. Or some cream. Of course, rice. The result is food that lives on a different level than any other region of the U.S.
If America is the great melting pot, then New Orleans is its magical culinary cauldron.
This summer brought me back to New Orleans for the first time since Hurricane Katrina. By my side - and experiencing their first authentic taste of the Crescent City - were my wife and middle son. I felt the need to take them to some of the classic restaurants that built the culinary reputation of this wonderful and oftentimes infuriating city.
The restaurants? Antoine’s, Commander’s Palace and Arnaud’s.
Antoine’s
Our first night brought us to Antoine’s, perhaps the granddaddy of them all. Opened in 1840. With claims of being America’s oldest family-run restaurant. A place that has served numerous presidents, countless celebrities and even a pope. Oysters Rockefeller were created here, named for the richness of the sauce.
We had reservations for 6:30pm, and needed to be out of there by 7:45 to catch Branford Marsalis and other musicians playing a tribute to his father’s contributions to jazz. We were concerned that we would be pushed for time. The concerns proved to be unfounded.
Our server was charismatic and professional. He assured us we’d make our performance on time, and then took time to find out where we were from, our plans in New Orleans and then shared his own impressive background in the food industry. He put us at ease and made recommendations.
Fresh, hot bread arrived. Minutes later, our starters were served. My son and I started with the seafood gumbo. Rich and fresh, seasoned perfectly. You’ve probably had gumbo before. But this is what it should taste like.
My wife did not order a starter, but our server did not want her to be the only one at the table without a first course. So he brought her a small green salad - gratis. One of the little acts of kindness that sets Antoine’s apart from so many others.
I ordered a cup of gumbo to start and shrimp creole for mains. I wasn’t looking for cutting edge, I was classic comfort. And it landed. Rich, deep flavors permeated each dish, with just the right level of spice.
I savored each bite as the fragrant, herb-rich, peppery flavors lit up my taste buds.
My wife and son were also in the mood for classics, and ordered from the Louisiana Seafood section of the menu. My Irish-English wife loves her fish and chips, and chose the Classic Fish Almondine. As you can see, it was an enormous portion of beautifully fried Gulf fish with rice and asparagus. Our son went for the Pompano Pontchartrain, topped with crab. He was all smiles.
Sticking with the old school vibe, we ordered Baked Alaska for dessert. Baked Alaska takes various forms throughout the world. In some places, it’s a meringue filled with ice cream. At Antoine’s, the baked portion is cake. Of course, with ice cream in the middle. Cream lines the base of the dish with “Antoine’s” written in cream on one side, and “Since 1840” on the other. The beauty of the dish didn’t last long as our spoons tore into the dessert.
We made our concert with plenty of time to spare. And we made it with our stomachs filled with an incredible meal.
Antoine’s
713 St. Louis St.
504.581.4422
Reservations Highly Recommended
Commander’s Palace
The history of Commander’s Palace doesn’t stretch back as far as Antoine’s. After all, it wasn’t founded until 1893, 53 years after Antoine’s. Believe me, its place in culinary history is secure.
Created by Emile Commander, brought to prominence by the Brennan Family, and rocketed to award-winning status by chefs Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse. The kitchen is now under the watchful eye of Chef Meg Bickford.
Located in New Orleans’ charming Garden District and featuring its “Commander’s Blue” paint scheme, the restaurant is impossible to miss. And impossible not to like.
You’re greeted like old friends as you arrive. A few things are hard not to notice. First, the place is huge. We were led through several dining rooms, up the stairs and back through more dining rooms. Secondly - and certainly a necessity because of its size and commitment to quality - Commander’s Palace is run with military precision.
An entire team looks after your table, ensuring that dishes are served to each person at exactly the same time.Water glasses are not refilled but replaced entirely. Staff don’t point you to the restrooms, but escort you (like I said, the place is huge).
I started with the Commander’s Creole Gumbo. Although gumbo is a staple in many New Orleans restaurants, each has its own unique personality. My bowl at Commanders was less surf and more turf than the dish I experienced the previous evening at Antoine’s. There’s no wrong here, just different.
My son Garrett ordered the Turtle Soup. Yes, I know - the very idea puts off a lot of people. But the recipe draws on local ingredients and the area’s long history with great food. The taste (he was kind enough to share) was both rich and subtle.
Waiters surrounded the table as we were served, and poured the soup and gumbos into our bowls in union. Wow. Just wow.
As we moved to main courses, I was drawn to shrimp and grits. As I native South Carolinian, I seldom tire of the dish, and love the many varieties developed in different regions. The Commander’s Palace Louisiana Wild White Shrimp did not disappoint. Fresh from local shrimpers with Creole cream cheese grits.
For dessert, we chose Bananas Foster cooked table side. Flames soared high into the air complemented by sparks created by cinnamon drifting from the waiter’s fingers. Wizardry.
Commander’s Palace
1403 Washington Ave.
504.899.8221
Reservations Highly Recommended
Arnaud’s
We didn’t originally have plans for Sunday brunch, but decided to squeeze in an early booking before our drive back to Dallas. Arnaud’s was available - and thank goodness it was.
Arnaud’s is the baby of the three classic restaurants we experienced during our trip. Founded in 1918, Arnaud’s also has a rich history in New Orleans’ food scene.
We’re bang on time for our reservation, and with a warm greeting, we’re whisked off to our table in the main dining room where our server starts attending to our every need.
Like many restaurants in the city, Arnaud’s serves a Jazz Brunch on Sundays. Diners get to choose one item from each of the three courses on the specialty menu.
We start with waffles, gumbo, and of course - Shrimp Arnaud - the restaurant’s signature dish. Gulf shrimp marinated in a Creole remoulade sauce. It has fire and freshness.
I followed with eggs piperdade - baked eggs in a peppery tomato sauce. And finished with the table-side bananas foster.
While the food was rich and decadent, the service was impeccable.
The jazz was served up by a trio of musicians who started in a corner and then roamed through the dining room. The musicians were talented and charming. There was no pressure to tip (although tips were sincerely appreciated).
The maitre' d - Shawn - shared the history of the restaurant, and showed us the exhibits of Mardi Gra costumes upstairs owned by the daughter of Count Arnaud, the restaurant’s original owner. Officially called the Germaine Cazenave Wells Mardi Gras Museum, the exhibits include more than two dozen Mardi Gras costumes.
The entire dining experience was extraordinary - a delight for the tastebuds, the ears and eyes. Our only regret is our lack of capacity to eat more food without exploding. Still, yet another reason to return and experience again the greatness of Arnaud’s.
Arnaud’s
813 Bienville St
504.523.5433
Reservations Highly Recommended
Three classic Crescent City restaurants in three days is an indulgence, I admit. Next time we’ll have to stay longer.
Footnote: We also managed to grab breakfast at Cafe du Monde. Evidence below.
